Cams climbing. The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam.

Cams climbing Their unique design works in pockets and holes where others simply can't fit. 7 out of 5 stars. Range Finder tells you at a glance if you've chosen the right size cam for the placement. The beefiness mentioned above makes them great for aid climbing, and the thumb loop lets you clip in higher than cams without a thumb loop. On the downside this means they are very inflexible along the stem and so are subject to walking - a big drawback for a micro cam. May 9, 2024 · Let’s dive into the goings-on about one of the most talked-about climbing cams in the market today: The Totem Cam. One other piece of good news for those wishing to get a long life out of their Totem, you will be glad to hear they operate a repair service . In these environments, the Dragons are meant to inspire confidence with the “ TripleGrip ” cam lobes. The world’s best-selling, most trusted cam. When you pull the spring-loaded trigger wire, these chunks of metal retract and make the device narrower. These devices consist of a number of different cams that all pull together on one axle to lock in place on the rockface, thereby ensuring that the climber will be supported at all times should they lose their grip on the wall or rock for any reason. Learn how to properly place cams with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association. 0 all the way up to #8. MAINTENANCE 4 days ago · Trigger keeper in action on the Black Diamond #4 Quick Review. They have a flexible cable stem and recessed cam spring design, and also have a narrow head design, which is optimal for shallow placements. Different brands tend to be better suited to different rock types (e. But beyond simply climbing lots of rocks, we used our lifetimes of climbing experience to carefully note important key factors for each cam and metric, described below. The popularity and durability of these cams means they have excellent resale value. The most common piece of active pro is the cam. The ability to quickly and safely protect parallel-sided cracks opened up the world of traditional climbing to whole new realms. Add Cams. The Black Diamond Camalot C4 is the gold standard climbing cam and recent improvements have shaved 10% of weight off of these workhorses. From these details, you can find the best equipment to fit your personal climbing needs and weigh the pros and cons of similar climbing cams. Apr 24, 2019 · Yates reslings nearly all cams including Wild Country, DMM, Aliens, Metolius, Totem, and Black Diamond. For those looking for a cheaper cam, or a more modern single axle cam, these are a good choice. A. Ultralight TCUs have an optimized cam angle for greater holding power and wider cam faces for more grip. 34" to 1. The Master Cam is a flexible, single-stem unit with an optimized cam angle for increased holding power. Available in six sizes, the new Alien X features the following improvements: Cams with X-grip texture: Improves the grip of the cams during the first times it is Oct 28, 2016 · This means you should bring two sets of cams in a certain size (doubles in 1”) or two sets of the standard rack of cams. In Depth Guide for the Top 5 Climbing Cams Black Diamond Camalot C4 Cam Sep 6, 2013 · The Tricam is a puzzling piece: It’s delightfully simple, with no active—or moving—parts, yet it has more potential uses than either a spring-loaded camming device (SLCD) or a standard nut. We don't particularly like using them when climbing near our limits, but on easier routes, especially long multi-pitch, we like to carry one due to its increased versatility, and feel like we can often get by with one Link Cam where we might have needed two normal cams. A rigid stem is preferable when placing and removing cams, because it transfers the movement of your hand into the camming head, making it easy to wiggle in or out. Insert the cam into the crack and release the trigger to allow the lobes to expand and contact the rock. When you release the trigger, the cam lobes expand to fit the rock. Technology that is pushing the clean climbing limits. Acids are exceptionally bad for cam slings and other nylon climbing equipment. 34 Rock climbing friends / cams, cam sets & rocks & stoppers & more Wide range of products FREE shipping options! Wild Country® USA. Black Diamond. Alien X Red The Alien X is the sixth generation of the micro cam that obtained its first patent in 1986, in Colorado (US). Each cam has three or four lobes that contract when the trigger is pulled, and then expand to fill the crack when the trigger is released. BD climbing cams come in sizes ranging from #0. Link Cam, 10. Oct 4, 2019 · I n 2015 Rob Greenwood reviewed the Totem Cams. Active Gear Cams. The Ultralight Master Cams are twenty percent lighter than the originals. CNC machined for much greater precision than stamped or extruded cams. From decreasing weight to improving ergonomics, we’re always finding ways to elevate our protection. I’ve used the cams often and they’ve all seen a handfull of Shop climbing protection. $6 Single loop 4. Sep 8, 2020 · Master Cams are a really solid set of cams - which is both a plus point and their downfall. More info: DMM Website Nov 6, 2018 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. Camming devices are something that every climber should have in their kitbag before even considering climbing a wall or rockface. Jan 30, 2018 · Light is right, and we feel that all the tweaks and redesigns to make these cams lighter hasn't affected their durability all that much, and we'd recommend these featherweight cams for free climbing or big wall climbing just about anywhere. The only way to break a cam stop is to fall and expand the head past the stops, inverting the lobes (aka umbrella’ing the cam). . Sep 5, 2016 · 4. That said, usually a climbing cam with a flexible stem and narrow head will work in a Tricam placement. There may have been some curses thrown in for good measure. Recent innovations such as reverse cam strength (that means the device will still hold a fall even when the cams are fully open - provided that is that they actually catch on the rock in some way!) are useful, and dyneema slings, forged cams and other advances have made "Cams" a lot lighter than the earlier models, whilst reductions in scale Jan 30, 2018 · Totem Cams are our favorite cams for aid climbing because of their ability to engage only two lobes at a time, allowing for an endless array of strange, body-weight-only placements, multiple clip-in points, and super narrow heads, even in the larger hand sizes. Climbing cams are differentiated in all sorts of shapes and sizes, from TriCams to spring-loaded camming devices. 4. They are more commonly used in places where trad routes were originally aid climbed and pinscars remain in the rock to place protection in. Mar 16, 2016 · What remains is a flexible, single-stem cam with a new shark fin tooth pattern and color-coded range finder to ensure proper placement. In the right situation, Link Cams can be advantageous weapons on a free climber's rack. Dec 19, 2019 · Free Climbing. Compare Trad Climbing Cams. If your cams come into contact with any corrosive substances or solvents, have the slings replaced immediately. Don’t forget to read and understand the instructions that come with your climbing gear. Today, our climbing protection is still the trusted industry standard – and we’re still just as committed to innovation. Then, in the last 5-10 years there have been a lot of new cams introduced that give the Alien stiff competition: Metolius Master Cam and Black Diamond Camalot Placing Cams. They do not sling cams janky looking cams (the official rule is 10+ years old but that’s more of a guideline). In an interview for Climbing No. Keep your cams away from any corrosive substances or solvents. 5″ sling 8. Even fumes from a car battery can reduce the strength of your slings by as much as 90%. Triples means three sets and so on. Active pro refers mainly to cams, unless you are climbing a wide crack (called an offwidth), which might require the active pro known as a Big Bro. It was a glowing review as the Totems really are an impressive bit of kit which perform excellently whilst providing something distinctly different to the current homogenous line-up of the mainstream cams - better than a conventional cam both in terms of increased holding power and decreased head width. It consists of two, three, or four cams mounted on a common axle or two adjacent axles, so that pulling on the axle forces the cams to spread further apart. They’re generally easier to place and clean, and they are more versatile in cracks that vary in size. Our cams tend to get the most beat up during aid climbs, where every piece gets weighted, often in strange positions pushing the limits of their designs. Master Cam, 12. Range 0. 89" Ultralight TCUs are for narrow, tricky, hard to protect thin cracks. 170 (2008), the 1970s rock legend Henry Barber said he still didn’t use SLCDs. Totem MT manufactures high performance climbing gear. 121. May 24, 2020 · The softer metal detracts from the durability of these cams but gives us some added confidence as these cams seem to bite into the rock and hold under weird bodyweight placements. Worldwide shipping. 75° Camming Angle | Proven performance places and cleans quickly and efficiently. 95 Jan 30, 2018 · Aid Climbing. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. To place a cam, unclip the appropriate size cam from your harness or gear sling and pull the trigger to retract the cam lobes. They find their way into more placements than almost any other small cam. 51 (1978), wondered whether Friends’ use should lower a climb’s technical grade, and whether it would be poor style to repeat a climb originally protected with chocks while using cams. Strength: 14kn (all sizes) 10kn (placed passively) Weight: size 0 = 84g / size 4 = 221g. Climbers, both new and experienced, were used to solicit feedback while on single pitch routes and multi-pitch routes. Cams typically feature three or four curved pieces of aluminum, called cam lobes. The Alien Revolution excel on granite, whether you're aid or free climbing. CE and UIAA certified - Made in Bend, Oregon. Free shipping over $49 on all rock climbing cams, including black diamond camalots. Falls were taken. These highly engineered, sort of affordable, shiny spring-loaded gadgets allow safe passage up cracks narrower than a centimeter up to wide enough to fit your body inside. Exclusive design which features everything you require of a cam for all-around use with extended capabilities. The axle is attached to a stem with a trigger and trigger wires which retract the cam lobes when pulled for placement in a crack or pocket. There's also some weird cams like Metolius super cams, and the recently discontinued Omega Pacific Link cams, really big cams from valley giant, Merlin, and recently BD, and a whole slew of pretty generic cams from trango, camp, etc. Sep 29, 2023 · Rock climbing cams, or Spring-Loaded Camming Devices, consist of four spring-loaded cam lobes which pivot on an axle. Apr 4, 2025 · The Metolius Ultralight Master Cams are tough enough to stand up to the abuse of aid climbing, but they lack thumb loops and our testers unanimously agree that cams with thumb loops like the Black Diamond Camalot Ultralights, Z4s, and the Wild Country Friends are better for aid climbing. Ultralight Master Cams are for general all around free climbing with small to medium crack sizes. (Check out our Best Climbing Cams Review for a complete breakdown of the cams we tested). Nov 9, 2020 · The Wild Country Zero Friends have been newly redesigned and re-released in 2020, and are one of the best smaller camming devices you can buy today. 3. The Trango Flexcam feature class leading range and are among the lightest 4-cams available. While the original unit had two placements (one passive, one active), the Compare different brands of trad climbing cams by range, weight, and strength. g: Metolius Fat Cams are great for soft sandstone, whereas Black Diamond C4’s are more suited to granite). Now 10% lighter, the redesigned Camalot C4 has eclipsed our classic, cornerstone cams, and features a more modern design with new touch-points like a wider trigger for easier handling, and our innovative trigger keeper for compact racking with sizes #4, #5 and #6. Jun 15, 2020 · The new RigidFlex stem design also aids in these cam's efficacy while free climbing. Original Friend, 11. Common Climber Marketplace is highlights small climbing-related businesses to help spread the word about their work and to help our community thrive. 4. Six cams were tested in the climbing cam category in 2018. The Totem Cam offers an extraordinary holding power and unique capabilities with the patented Direct Loading system. Offset cams mean that the lobes are different sizes - they are offset from eachother. Typically climbers buy offset cams after they already own "regular" equal lobed cams. camming devices, also known as climbing friends, or more correctly Spring Loaded Camming Devices) are pieces of rock climbing equipment that fit into parallel-sided or even slightly flared cracks to provide protection. If you are using cams for aid climbing, offset cams are a great choice. As with many single axle designs, they feel a little 'old-school'. Most of the testing took place “in the field,” by using cams on trad climbs. They are popular, so people are familiar with them. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee A spring-loaded camming device (also SLCD, cam or friend) is a piece of rock climbing or mountaineering protection equipment. Offset cams are particularly helpful when climbing alpine but can be used almost anywhere. Cams. 5. If you decide you don't like them or to stop trad climbing, you can sell them easily. Jan 25, 2010 · Aliens use to be hands down my favorite cam for big walls and climbs where you have tight and shallow placements. Sep 30, 2015 · Good, solid, single axle cams with a useful double sling design. Fixe Ultralight Alien Revolution cams: Otherworldly friends to have on your rack. Your climbing partners will be familiar with your rack, and you'll be familiar with your partners' rack. On the upside they hold well, feel extremely solid, are easy to place and are very durable. Finding the best climbing cam is a process, but below are a few of the highest rated cams available. Price, product page $399. Outdoorplay has climbing pro covered. Offset cams are made for irregular crack widths. Totem Cam store. “I have cams Climbing cams (A. Original 13. Shop trad climbing cams online from Trango. To see how it stacks up versus the competition, check out our review of climbing cams. Read the interview with Kevin Daniels, CEO of FIXEhardware, Inc. Wild Country Friends Rock Climbing Cams - Lightweight, Active Protection for Trad & Alpine Climbing #1 Top Rated. May 8, 2015 · For those wishing to use it trad climbing, this is the perfect cam for marginal/insecure placements and a joy to use and place. It retains its original character, with a version that has been improved in terms of performance and finishes. Cams were used by a wide array of climbers on dozens of climbs, primarily on sandstone and granite. Cam Stop. It almost singlehandedly ushered in the modern free-climbing era, making it much safer to try the parallel-sided splitter cracks that had heretofore been all but unprotectable using nuts and Hexes. Their flexibility makes them an excellent piece for pockets and pin scars. While the DMM Dragonfly cams are very small, flexible Types of Climbing Cams There are too many designs of cam to list here. I own doubles of blacks and blues and within a year of use all 4 cams have started to have frayed load bearing wires. If you carry a double set of cams, the weight savings is the same as a twelve ounce canned beverage of your choice. This allows you to slide the unit inside a crack. My Rack. The invention of the spring loaded camming device (commonly called simply "cams") in the 1970's revolutionized the climbing world. here. Dec 19, 2019 · Cams are essential equipment for modern traditional climbing. ” Apr 16, 2010 · I don't consider them mandatory for any Yosemite or sandstone routes, but climbers in more pocketed areas often swear by them. When you place Wild Country® UK Best Deals on Climbing Cams & Friends Material Selection for your protection while climbing - FREE Delivery options! Jan 30, 2018 · These cams were developed where the climbing ethic is staunchly traditional, and natural protection is needed for slick slate quarries and sea cliffs. They can be placed passively (like a nut) or actively (like a cam), depending on the orientation and features in the rock. 5 Nov 11, 2021 · In this case, return the cam to the manufacturer for inspection and repair. 10% lighter yet just as durable as before, the updated Black Diamond Camalot C4 cam features a modern design that improves on tried-and-true Camalots with an optimized strength-to-weight ratio. 6 sizes: #00 - 4; Sold individually or as sets (#1 - 4 Free Set) or (#00 - 4) May 27, 2020 · The cam is a wonderful invention. Oct 1, 2020 · These specialty cams are useful in flared cracks where the size of the opening changes from front to back. Characteristics: Mar 13, 2018 · Climber’s Best Friend | The first camming device ever made for trad climbing newly redesigned for the modern vertical world. Feb 25, 2015 · Cams are some of the most interesting, useful and well-engineered pieces of climbing gear made. Retire your cams if the cams have been damaged in a fall, if the cam teeth are worn away, if the tailpiece or crossbar is cracked, if the stem cable is frayed, kinked or damaged in any way, or if the springs are weak or damaged. 11/16 Nylon Webbing and 14mm Spectra® Webbing is available (they do not carry 12mm Dyneema). Shop for Cams at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. K. Unfortunately the durability of smaller pieces (black and blue) seems rather poor. “The action was really smooth, and I had reliable, solid placements with every type of fissure and pod—and a lighter pack to boot,” exclaimed one Eldorado Canyon, Colorado tester. Camalot C4. Apr 26, 2025 · Nicest cams to use out there and feel very solid even in wierd uneven placements. Do plan to get in the queue early and well in advance of your next climbing trip. 32" Ultralight Power Cams are for mid range crack sizes or for splitter cracks in desert sandstone, granite or columnar basalt. According to users, the cam is popular for its direct-bias loading function that enables all lobes to proportionally share the weight - a function that apparently works impressively in real-life climbing conditions. While this doesn’t pose a safety issue, it will make the cam harder to use in the future and thus a good candidate for retirement Supercams have asymmetric cam lobes giving them almost twice the range of conventional cams used for crack climbing. Both active and passive pro comes in a variety of sizes, with different numbers or colors corresponding to the size of crack each piece might fit. 3 Cam, 9. Cams are devices with retractable cam lobes that, under the tension of a spring, can be wedged or placed inside cracks of rock; when the camming unit is weighted, the cam lobes apply an outward force against the rock that secures the unit from Feb 12, 2024 · Steve Levin, in Climbing No. svk jax xdfdfu qimj rval hldpe gnlszv ulfoavm kqdcd vrjx