Best double length sling anchor reddit.

• Best double length sling anchor reddit Aaaand go enroll in a top rope anchor course. Fair points. Nwslackline. Probably overkill especially if you're carrying a cordalette and won't need slings at the anchor. Prusiks and clove hitches are both a pain in the ass, but work. Remember that fall factor is a ratio of fall distance vs. A couple small lockers for the bolts and a big locker and matching oval non locker for master point is what I use if I want a super bomber top rope with said tied off sling. The bolts were a bit off to one another and to properly pre-equalize the system I used an overhand knot to slightly shorten one of the slings. Use this for gear anchors, tree anchors and so forth Also get a couple double length slings for tied off anchors. The slings you will use for a top rope anchor will typically be 120cm, while those for a sling draw would be 60cm (although you are correct in thinking that Dyneema is the best kind of sling for this purpose). The more of a crack climb it is, the less extension you need as you can just clip straight into the cams. Specifically, I have found it saves me time and effort on routes where I know the anchors are compatible - meaning mostly bolted anchor setups or easily protected anchors that I know, from experience or reliable beta, do not require extensive additions or If there are bolted anchors just get a double shoulder length sling and 4 locking biners. Know and understand what you're trying to accomplish instead. Best is to have 100% full time monitoring but that’s not possible. -Prussik cord with a locker. It's a shit way to rig anything because the sling will become captive if it's secured on the outsides, plus it's generally inherently unstable (for a single sling anyway). But you can't always trust a bolt, so clip two if you can when going in direct. Apr 12, 2019 · This sling comes in four different lengths, and while we tested the double-length (60cm) version, which is ideal for use on lead to extend protection pieces, either the 120cm or 240cm versions would be solid choices for use in anchor building. Obviously clove hitches are more tolerant of the climber dumbing and letting a bunch of slack form. Double length nylon sling girth hitched to the head of the ice axe and girth hitched to your harness. Yep, static line is probably your best option for extending toprope anchors. But it certainly does not conform to best practices. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. 5 C4 = 12 kN), you should feel safe top roping on the cordelette. Depends on your local climbing area. It would be a bad idea to fall on one, but you really shouldn't put yourself in that position. How many… Dec 18, 2014 · Tree Anchor. Ideally, I'd use a double length nylon for a top rope anchor, sliding X, with a masterpoint knot. The slings could be looped multiple times over the biner attached to the bolt or knotted to equalize. Not redundant. I dont find myself wanting to shorten the personal anchor length past that. I have only had to use the two 30s together once when the hangers were removed from a set of anchors and had to sling a block that was well back from the edge of the climb. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. Another sling attached to the first sling with another locker. A safer alternative using the gear in hand would be to use one sling per bolt and knot the two together above the lockers. If you're just Sep 1, 2023 · Another popular length is 120cm (48"), a sling that is most frequently used for equalizing multiple pieces of protection in an anchor. I am a fan of the open sling because I trad climb. On the up, the locker doubles as the locker for my ATC in guide mode, the prusik can double as an extra sling if I run out. For Multi-pitch. Extra long extension or anchors. Sling with sliding-X: no redundancy to gain pointless equalization on two bomber bolts. But I feel like it’s fine to have different tools for different objectives? Maybe I’m soft but the days where im planning to rap 1000+ feet from semi-hanging stances it’s worth it to me to make it comfortable 🤷🏻‍♀️ Usually bring 8-10 alpine shoulder length draws, 3 double length slings with carabiners over the shoulder ( for extension, anchor building, slinging shit, and rap tether), and often like 4 regular lightweight sport draws. Moved Permanently. Use best judgement and get new slings for about 8 bucks each if youre not confident in them. If you feel safe taking lead falls on cams (BD 0. You could also girth the sling to your harness and tie an overhand to adjust the length. I prefer something I always knew to be called the "electricians coil". That gives a couple more options for length based on where you put the biner. And yes we are scared of falling. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Please be also advised, that the knot in the sling will reduce the holding power of the sling. Sometimes the routes wanders left and right a lot and you would want something self equalizing, like a sliding X with limiter knots. You should always make the best anchor you can with what you have. In addition, the only setting I really need to be able to adjust the length of it is at belays on multipitches, and a clove hitched rope can be Best of Reddit; Topics; about a cordelette or sling anchor that people typically use for a 2 bolt anchor (doubled with limiting knots making a master point with 4 Because the space between them was pretty large and my 120cm sling (or double length I heard is called) was creating a larger angle (about 60) I decided to use 2 120 slings. Based on the reading I've done, it's recommended that if you use a PAS for belaying a follower, you want to tie in with something else (a sling, a quickdraw, whatever) to the 2nd bolt for redundancy. Cowtail the sling (120cm', or whatever length you prefer)to yourself via belay loop and attach the carabiner to the anchor point. Unpack my rope and flake the rope into two piles and put the middle through the locking carabiner. It's no longer suggested to have a third hand off a leg loop, so you really want to have an extended rappel, no nicer system than the humble 6 slings, 6 alpines, 2 draws, and 2 double length slings = 16 extensions in a single pitch. Oct 22, 2017 · Evolve your thinking past what is "best" or "best practice". I only carry webbing while climbing for use in bail anchors, but for canyoneering where it is super common I would use the 1in tubular webbing. 5 can vary from 0. (Edits from a real computer) Bungee tether, either homemade, or pre made like the BD Slinger leash. Regardless of the few extra seconds it takes. If double strand 5mm is about as strong as single strand 7mm, and it only requires twice the length of cord. The rope should be fine unless you are climbing the full length of the rope and don't have an extra length to make the anchor. This isn’t my bread and butter rap setup, which is whatever double-length sling is free. If the pieces are far from each other, I might build a mini anchor (sliding X) on 2 of the pieces w/ a double length sling to extend them a bit. If the slings are going to be loaded over an edge, maybe use thicker nylon slings and double up. When I made this same exact decision, I went with a 240cm dyneema sling. 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Illustration by Chris Philpot The Gear. clip a draw to the left rap ring, just in case you beef it setting up the anchor. Cleaning: no difference. What you're doing is fine. A small sling girth hitched toa bigger sling has cut the big sling, but that is different. Climbing in Yosemite, for example, will often give you two bolts in close proximity if you have bolted anchors at all. A factor 2 fall on the anchor was I think 16kn for nylon, 25 for dyneema and only 8kn for an anchor made using ropes. Some people use a double length sling tied to a master point (my preferred method), some build their anchor out of the rope, some just go directly into the chains with their PAS and a sling. Because of the roofs, traverses, and lack of vertical cracks, you will find yourself using a ton of slings at the Gunks. You can equalize a 3 piece anchor with a double-length sling in a sliding X. More if the route wanders. This anchor is fine. I tend to use slings or cord when leading in blocks and use the rope when swinging leads. Brands recommend replacing after 5 years, most people say 10, Ive whipped on 13y/o slings. A couple of prussiks or tiblocs, a couple of double length slings, a couple of pulleys, and some anchor building material are all you need. If you meet these criteria, i would recommend a double length (120cm) or a quad length (240cm) dyneema sling depending on the type of anchor you’ll make, with 3-4 lockers. If all you are doing is sport then the sewn sling is probably better suited to your needs. Holy shit it's so nice for anchors. Now, I should have said that the anchor on the left is a really nice setup for multipitch climbing because you isolate yourself from the belay device/follower. And, in this case, op can ditch 2 whole dogbones and non lockers, put two non lockers on the bolts (these can be lockers or just one can or niether) clip the sling (paying attention so the stitching is out of the way (I clove hitch the stitching to the Nylon slings do degrade with time and moreso with sun exposure. So in short, cordalette is more versatile, and often cheaper, but bulkier I started carrying a 180cm (triple length) dyneema sling last season and it’s my new favorite - it’s just always exactly the right length for anything single/doubled/tripled/quadrupled and super flexible. But honestly, for simple top ropes that don’t require extension etc, you’ll Probably be fine with just quick draws. I find having something extra only for that purpose is unnecessary and just extra bulk. But as with everything anchor-related, it depends. I girth a double length sling or two to my harness and tie an overhang 1/3 of the way up, then I can navigate rappels super safely and dont have to bring any extra gear. Wrap the sling/cord around the tree, match the ends, and tie a figure eight on a bight to create a master point. Posted by u/WildWilly29 - 5 votes and 29 comments A locker attached to the anchor with a sling attached to that. Or you could just have a doubled runner, rap device in the middle on an overhand on a bight, clip the end to the anchor. Ss they make these days are pretty sweet though, the big selling point is adjustable length for clipping in which can greatly reduce clusterfuckery. I would make them longer and the "power point" shorter. If I had to use double length slings, I would almost certainly use a cordelette. The only impact it has is making sure I have two of the same length for the anchor. And I absolutely agree on if the bolts are further spaced apart than usual. 11 votes, 23 comments. I use 120cm slings with a couple knots in them. I like using a double-length sling to make a chest harness and hold up one of the ascenders. I was thinking that after the class, I'll do some top roping on my own. If you only put the biner through one strand in the middle (as pictured) the webbing could fail in one place inside the limiters and the whole anchor fails. Double the sling over into a basket (4 pieces of sling supporting load) and you've doubled the capacity (allowing for angle factors etc). 248K subscribers in the tacticalgear community. My rappelling method is as such: Girth hitch one side of double length sling to your harness tie-in points, put an overhand knot in about half-way up, and put a locker at the very end of the sling to attach yourself to chains 2 double-length nylon slings 4 single-length nylon slings several non lockers 6 lockers a rope! Climbing Anchors by John Long, or any other anchor-building book This gear will allow you to utilize natural features to build top-rope anchors. As others have said. Slings are pretty cheap as far as gear goes, so why buy not a couple of lengths and go experiment? Start with a 60 and 120 nylon from really any reputable brand, and maybe a sewn 240 for anchor building. Imposible to know if you found the best location for the anchor because we cant see anywhere else so maybe you chose the best spot but like its been said try to avoid relying on a single block. -2 HMS style lockers for clove hitches. Have done a good amount of diverse… Don't listen to the zealots - and there are many hereabouts. pull rope and belay from top shelf. You can make each end a different length to make rappelling easier. How long should the cordelette be, and is there a "best" diameter? I have seen anywhere from 14ft to 30ft for length and that a minimum diameter is around 5. Make sure you've got all the troubleshooting skills down. It gives redundancy and everyone usually has a sling on them to use in this manner. you don't need a PAS to anchor yourself to something. If you're setting a toprope anchor, where you have the ability to walk to the top, set the anchor, and rappel down, there's no reason not to use a safer setup utilizing four locking carabiners and a double-length sling. You're good. Good job for using an autoblock/prussik. Reply reply The only concern I have is the length of the bunny ears. I haven't carried cordalettes for years. Drop the PAS and opt for a double length sling, a single length sling and some static cord for a prussik loop. Posted by u/SirWill - 1 vote and 18 comments Best of Reddit; Topics; Content Policy; I would just go with a double-length sling - 120 cm here: yeah. Anchor sling length/rigging question? Hopefully gonna make it to REI tomorrow to get my primitive rig. I usually carry 12 shoulder length (2ft), 2 double length (4ft) runners, and a cordelette when I climb there. P. For threading through an anchor I usually use 2 quickdraws, or one girth-hitched long sling and a quickdraw. 6 depending in the knot //the 2 comes from the fact that you have 2 strings when knoting cord together Typically a lobster claw, or a cow's tail setup is what is used. The results were quite shocking to me. Lot's of sources online on how to easily make your own for cheap. Two anchor pieces, each about the size of a draw on your harness, and pretty darn light. You don't need to mess with knotting slings, or doubling up to clip to 2 points. Instead of doing two overhand knots on the legs and a sliding x, are there any advantages/disadvantages to doing two figure eights instead? Also, is this method redundant enough while using one 10mm sling? I bought two different length of QuickDraw when I got started because I thought that was better. The PAS for starters can be replaced with a double length sling taking the price from ~$30 to ~$9. The quad is one type of anchor, but it’s not the be-all-end-all anchor and you may find yourself in situations where it may not be suitable. But 99 times out of 100 I'll pick dynema Item Description Number Cost Link Rope Edelweiss Rocklight II Climbing Rope - 9. Dynema is amazing. I only use it for static protection though, I would never use a sling as a PAS if I wanted to work on a particular section of a climb off belay, for example - although it would probably hold, other systems transfer much less energy to the last point of security, such as a PAS made from dynamic rope. I do this because it's quick, I don't have to carry a double length with me, and I don't have to untie any knots when I am taking the anchor apart. Then a locker at the end for the master point, and the whole thing ×2 on the adjacent anchor. Hi, I have been climbing for over two years now. There are many variations, some good and others shitty. As your rope gets longer the benefit of a bit more diameter rope becomes more pronounced. Basically, you want all flop, no tension when the rope goes through. You probably want to use a double-length sling and a quickdraw, or two shoulder-lengths, at least. 1. Most people just use any standard sling or chain some draws together. Posted by u/baffled88 - 6 votes and 15 comments Hey lots of the comments are harsh. While these are the most common uses for slings, only your creativity can limit the potential they have while climbing. The home of Climbing on reddit. What I don't necessarily like is that, it fails the no extension test. The sewn label and ease of unraveling an alpine draw is worth the premium price imo. And honestly, two equallettes isn't bad. I'll then take the two slings leading to the master point and tie an overhand with them to equalize them where I need it to be. Some sort of redundancy is good We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. The big benefits of cordalette are that you can chop it up for v-threads, to leave behind on abseils and if you have a sufficient length make a sling longer than a 240cm (need > 5. In this case, I would make an anchor with slings to extend it. I'm beginning to think that even draws are unecessary. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. 4-6 lockers, with at least two being dedicated solely for top roping and one being dedicated for your belay device. Yes, the knots weaken the sling, but I'm not sure you'd live through a 22kn impact anyway. The doubles are accessed by unclipping and pulling out from under the single length. The P. Your personal sling/anchor should be solid if you know how old it is etcetera. This is assuming 2 bolts for the anchor. I agree with your point on the sliding X not being necessary, kind of defeating the point of creating space, but whenever I use an equalette like this for a top rope, I always like to use two strands, and as a result feel weird about not using two strands when I'm at a multi-pitch anchor -- but agree Hi guys, For the last 2 years' or so I've always used a purcell prussik made from 7mm cordellete with a carabiner on the end to tie direct into… A sling, (Typically a dynamic sling such as Beal Dynaclip or a homemade one) 3 Locking carabinners Belay/Rappel device 2 prussick's slings one "Maillon Rapide" to be lowered on a bolt in case I don't send the climb and there's nobody stronger around. Same as before More slings Quads definitely contain extension, and a pretied quad IMO is a one trick pony. 93. Mar 13, 2024 · Bring at least six single-length slings total, and up to twice that for complex terrain with lengthy pitches, or on long routes if an unplanned retreat seems possible. And have never once selected one to put on a bolt because it was 2” longer or shorter. May 23, 2016 · The single/double length sling. Clip the other two biners around the lower section (should be 4 strands) then rope goes into those biners. Two reasons: 1)If the bolts are spaced further apart it is possible to create an obtuse triangle between the knot, creating greater forces at the knot and on the bolts. that's more of an anchor building rope. In this thread you can ask any climbing… Hike to top of route, anchor myself to anything sturdy I can find at the top. I still carry a double length nylon for a person anchor or if I need something maybe a bit more abrasion resistant. Cord makes a better prussik, and emergency harnesses can be made of tubular webbing. Oct 29, 2023 · Length: I would go with 240cm sling or cord. Keep in mind many canyoneering ropes are narrower in diameter than climbing ropes and your prussik should be narrower diameter cord than the rope it’s grabbing… go 6mm or 7mm cord for your prussik loop. Slings are static so a factor two is going to be disastrous. What's my best best for an anchor? A sliding-X would make the anchor perfectly equalized, but extensible. On the way down I use a double length sling with an overhand tied somewhere below middle using the extended rappel/personal anchor combo. It's much safer imo. It could be better. For double length slings (4'), anchor webbing and cordelette, many folks use a twisted rack. Years later I’m still stuck with two different lengths. You don't have to fall fifty feet pre-tied foot-length prusik x 1 sling x 2 double length sling x 2 extra cordelette Certain items, like the pickets, we may hold off on and only bring 1 up for the group. Rope is dynamic but a factor two on a short length is still going to be uncomfortable. My coil takes a bit longer to rack, but it deploys quickly. The document has moved here. Posted by u/handsomebutinsane - 1 vote and 15 comments I'm going to take a top rope anchor class this weekend @ the Gunks. I'd also have the best angle possible between the two legs, minimizing the forces on each bolt. It's definitely arguable how much time it actually saves. 3M subscribers in the climbing community. By putting the knot 1/3 of the length out you should have plenty of headroom to clearly weight your rappel before disconnecting from the anchors. Care must be taken to ensure there is no fall potential on generated slack within that attachment. Double or triple length slings has been go my go-to multipitch setup for 95% of gear anchors in the US for a while now. a girthed double length sling The materials are pretty simple. I bought 2 d shaped lockers for the bolts and 2 hms lockers for the rope side. It can be 6mm prussic cord, or, more commonly a double length sling girth hitched to the hard points of your harness with a locker on the end, which also gets clipped into the fixed lines. Double-length slings provide a whopping four feet of extension and are more useful for rigging and anchors than for extending a single piece of pro. Just make sure you’re checking the anchor every time you come up to it, or at regular intervals. Now tie a knot a third of the way out. I like to use a cordalette and build an anchor with 3-4 pieces and a big pre-equalized master point. Take your double length sling, girth it to your harness. For bolted anchors, for a while I've been using a cordelette or double length sling tied as a quad or equalette, which is generally overkill, but can be useful on hanging belays. A. setup an anchor with a single or double length sling (dealers choice on type: I generally prefer a double length sling girth hitched to a quad) go indirect to the lower shelf, clean draw on left bolt. 2 live trees, at least as big around as your thigh. Hm, I find in trad climbing that if the good gear placements are any significant distance away from each other that it's not really adequate to just have slings (even double length slings). So your calculations shoud go like this : 2*(rating oft the sling)*0. It is a good piece of gear and will save you time if you know its limitations. Rappel off this knot, use the rest of the sling to clip in to the anchors when doing multiple rappels. We each carried one of these and also used them for all of our anchor building (natural anchors usually). its nice to be able to clearly weight your atc and observe your personal anchor being slack Personally, I like a double length nylon sling (like this 16mm one from DMM) tied in a sliding X configuration with two limiter knots for TR on two bomber bolts. 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. Some areas may have bolted anchors that are easily accessible, in which case you'll just need slings and some more biners. I'd also use two longer quickdraws for when I dont have said double. How many cams and alpine qd depends on how hard the climb would be, but general scrambling with some small pitch climbing around 4 cams and 6 qd, but I' Sep 19, 2019 · Rappel extensions started becoming in vogue around 2006 after a climbing accident in Wyoming where a friction hitch backup was likely tended or pushed down by the device causing the climber to lose control and eventually rappel off the end of the rope. As always, I recommend you do some research on anchor building. Use a double-length sling or cordelette to create an anchor around a solid tree that’s at least five inches in diameter, firmly rooted in the ground, and alive. Two bomber bolts: they're redundant. of tubular 1" webbing and cut it into lengths to make you own double length, or even larger, tied slings. I've started carrying a giant loop of Dyneema it's like 4x length sling basically. Enough carabiners for all of that (except the cord) to have 2 per sling/draw. Reply reply anonymous_commentor For an alpine rack I would carry less cams, more nuts, some 60cm alpine qd and two 120cm slings with biners clipped end to end around chest. I’m looking to set up a top rope anchor off of two bolts with a 10mm double-length sling. Because both of your ascenders are toothed ascenders take special care to make sure your setup is auto feeding, you really don't want to whip onto an ascender, both because ascenders cut ropes at like 4kn of force, and also because you will fuck up the sheath of your I like the space that it frees up on the harness, and also the added location to grab a sling when needed. Pretty light and plenty of length. May 2, 2013 · A 60 cm standard length sling, ran through your harness and tied into a figure eight in the middle is a good length for an extension. Set up rap, clip end back to belay loop, get to next anchor, clip back to anchor. 5 = breaking force oft the system //the 0. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. Eli gave you two options. Tied to my harness, alpine butterfly in the middle, and 8 at the end. On the down this is used to extend my rappel. I usually use a sliding x with a single length sling. The slings are redundant by virtue of their being two of them attached to different anchor points. Posted by u/BillyIron96 - 1 vote and no comments You can use a bungee or a double length sling or two shoulder length slings. A double-length sling is the same thing if you choose to completely ignore the convenience factor and adjustability of a PAS it's always the right length, and fully-weight-rated no matter where you clip in. Pull the sling through your hard points and bring each end together in front of you. When the camera is pulling down on the straps, thats fine. 11 votes, 390 comments. Setup an anchor system between the 2 bolts with a pair of quickdraws or a double sling (figure 8 knot). Super quick to adjust to your desired length for the belay and when you're taking apart the anchor you just slide the clove off, throw your anchor on your harness and get going. If you extend a piece four Posted by u/sheatetheseeds - 27 votes and 73 comments Oct 23, 2012 · Anchor yourself to a tree or crack with a long sling or length of rope before approaching the cliff edge to set up a toprope. For top roping, you can buy about 40 ft. 8mm (70m) Mammut Contact Slings for everything but double length or longer anchor setups. There are a couple of ways to do this. rope (or sling) in service. Clip the sling to the two bolts, then pull the center down to equalize, then do an overhand or 8 on a bight to create a master point. If you want redundancy (slings can get worn after a while) then put an overhand knot halfway up a double length sling. Double the sling over, grab both loops, twist, then clip them back to the locker in a good, twisty mess. -double length sling. At the end of the day, a $9 double-length nylon sling with some knots in it will do the same job. For bolted stations it's more convenient to just use a double-length sling (either premade or your own webbing one). two triple length slings with a locker on them. , a couple spare non-locking biners for anchors or using all your cams - and learn to use clove hitches and rely less on the PAS. Generally if they look bad, they are bad. Mar 31, 2016 · Use the PAS or a runner as a rap sling, but not as a substitute for anchor-building. The slings could be doubled up if length is an issue. If you clip both strands, the webbing could fail in one place outside the limiter knots and the whole anchor would fail. Wider slings (3/4” or 1”) are generally more durable. Thread it through your tie in points, then tie an overhand. If I clipped the rope directly to all my pro, I'd probably carry one double-length sling for a sliding X, and use cord for everything else. Reddit attracts a lot of know it alls. As for the anchor you will need something to use as an anchor. There are other methods, for example using two slings, but it depends on how the anchor is set up and how you need to equalize. IF you climb above your anchor while attached to the anchor via your PAS and you fall, that is a fall factor greater than 1, possibly up to 2, depending on how far above the anchor you climb relative to the length of your PAS. I recently bought a cordelette so I rarely use the 10 foot webbing anymore but they were handy if anchors were set back slightly and a double length sling wasn't enough. May 26, 2020 · I use double length nylon sling to extend rappel or make a PAS for cleaning. You can use a quick draw attached to your personal anchor to do this. For an anchor, all I have is my trusty double-length sling. Equalization is a myth - especially dynamic When cleaning routes with bolted anchors its a lot easier to clip in using a PAS or sling than it is messing with a clove hitch while trying to clean the anchor and the rap/lower off. There's a good reason people say to clove hitch in with the rope to an anchor. 5m for this). With rope you can tie a double bowline off on one, and the other can be whatever you want - a frictionless hitch, a bowline on a bight, or just some bight clipped to a sling around the tree. On the up, it can be used to extend. S. If not, I'll do a sling in each bolt. Yeh it's fine, I just girth hitch one through my tie-in loop with a carabiner the other end. If you use that product, it might be best to replace the stock "biner" with a true micro biner of your choice. org says to get 25' for anchors = two approx 6' slings. Wondering if this is a proper/safe way to fix a rope for a photographer. I can anchor with the 8, I setup my rappel on the butterfly, then remove the 8 and clip it back to my belay loop for shit an Extend, extend, extend some more. Larry Gergich's post answers the rest of the questions pretty well. For this review, we tested the majority of the slings in single-length. Best of Reddit; Topics; Content Policy; Girth hitch a sling to your belay loop and clip it to the anchor, problem solved. This has generally been sufficient for the multi-pitch routes I've done. Any tubular webbing or pre-sewn slings will also be suitable. Edit: Building an anchor at a two-bolt station with a double-length runner takes about a minute. On the lockers, I meant on the anchor to clove in the rope, not at the bolts/pro. 5 grams. DMM did a video comparing nylon and dyneema slings with ropes in the anchor. Method two is using two quickdraws and double backing them (clipping them in opposite directions) to yourself and the anchor. Tinyonion makes a good point about dyneema not holding a knot, but there are no, as in zero, examples of a sling being the failure point in an anchor because it reaches it's failure point in terms of load. I use a sling and a locking carabiner. We also bring up a shovel and probe for the group. Now me and a couple friends are getting into multipitch climbs and I want to know the best ways to build an anchor, belay, switch off, etc. The Metolius Personal Anchor System (PAS). com Double-length slings (120cm/48 in. Subreddit for both professional and civilian tactical gear. Make sure to properly tighten your slipknots. It's not comfortable by any stretch of the imagination but it gets the job done. Agreed. You’ll need four locking carabiners and a double-length sling (48”). Cost effective multi-purpose item with the distinct disadvantages of not being adjustable or shock absorbing. 305 votes, 96 comments. Weight of cord should scale with cross-section so since 2*5 2 ~ 7 2 it would depend on how efficient each configuration is and how much thinner the double strand version can be. Keep slack out of your static anchors. The knowledge to use them in the appropriate situation is much harder to come by, however. Like Van Wilder said, the redundancy you are looking for is in the protection on the wall. For short rappels the double shoulder length sling diaper harness is the absolute shit. 5 meter rope tether. Crypto You need a triple-length Dyneema sling rather than the double you are using. I also like the trick where I have one or two double lengths over the opposite shoulder, doubled up with a carabiner and under the single length sling-sling. . I usually only need two single length slings to create the anchor. 3 to 0. Nice haul! Now you just need a couple more trad draws, a few more nuts or offsets (unless you climb south western US) 2-3 single length slings (for extending cams without wasting a draw, or anchor building) 1 double length sling for bolt anchors/misc. I use double length slings shortened by a twist. Business, Economics, and Finance. I can tie two bolts together with a double length sling in literally seconds, and achieve zero extension. All my alpine draws are dynema and my favourite piece of rack is my quad length dynema sling. The irregular rock surface under the lobes on the right are a little sketch. Been sport climbing for over a year. Since I guess you can use thinner cord for double. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. Please sort comments by 'new' to find questions that would otherwise be buried. Better to have an anchor that's a little big than not have enough material. -quad length sling. Crypto Quickdraws/Slings/'biners 6 pre made "stubby" quickdraws draws, 4 shoulder length slings, 2 double shoulder length slings, 25' of 7-8mm accessory cord. It’s a good enough anchor. Most of the time I build my anchors using the rope itself. Double length is 120cm, these are usually what you use for personal anchoring. The phrase "good enough" should be reserved for alpine/aid/etc. Mostly because its easier to untie an overhand knot or a clove hitch with it, and if you fell on it while using as a PAS its much safer than dyneema (see this scary DMM video showing 2 foot direct falls on slings). Or maybe the short length of the quickdraws cause your rope to rub against the rock in a bad way. I doubt you will see too many people out on a milt pitch trad climb using this, but it could come in handy for one pitch routes I suppose. Both methods require a biner to attach to the harness, of course. I have been using the "sliding X" and "equalette" anchor systems but am looking to invest in a cordelette to build a quad anchor with for extended periods of top roping. Also, any PAS or personal tether is generally girth hitched, not attached with a carabiner so you only need 2 not 3 (in some cases 1 but then you give up redundancy). This means there´s at least a good 10 cm of material on both ends that runs double (and this seems like a pretty standard setup, the max length is very long). ) give you greater extension for reducing rope drag or positioning pro; a perfect size for building two-bolt, fixed anchors, they can be worn doubled over a shoulder or as an alpine quickdraw. Standard or shoulder length is 60cm, these are usually tripled and used for runners/long quickdraws. Setting up on a different route: 2 bolt anchor, double length sling tied… Posted by u/leggman7 - 4 votes and 7 comments Simple fix, don't use elastic. The twist is needed if you want the anchor to be redundant. Agreed on weight, though. I personally use 1. 5mm. This is just like setting a two bolt anchor except with your harness at the master point. You might need to learn a few new knots if you don't know them (clove hitch, figure-8 on a bite, etc). zffp voggmr mjwa nziqjqi rmxi adyix otn frrq fuwawim ttaknz hoybat qlt aqceykq bylhq qvpkxi